How-to guide

Check chain wear and replace an e-bike chain

Measure chain wear with a checker or ruler, know the replacement limits, then size, fit and join a new chain with a quick link, per Park Tool and Shimano.

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Difficulty
Moderate
Time
30 to 60 minutes

A worn chain slips, shifts badly and wears out the cassette and chainrings with it. This guide shows how to measure chain wear, decide when to replace, size a new chain and join it with a quick link or connecting pin. It follows Park Tool's chain guides and Shimano's chain manual. Your bike's manual and the chain maker's instructions win where they differ.

Park Tool says running a chain past its wear limit wears the cogs and chainrings early, and a cassette costs much more than a chain, so changing the chain on time saves money (Park Tool). iFixit notes that e-bike motors put more torque through the chain than a rider alone (iFixit), so check wear often.

Step-by-step

1Know the signs

Park Tool lists two signs of a worn chain: it slips when you pedal hard, or it hangs onto the chainring when you shift under load. Before blaming the chain, make sure the shifting is adjusted and the chain is clean and lubed (Park Tool). See adjust the rear derailleur and clean and lube the chain.

2Measure with a chain checker

A three-point checker is pushed onto the chain while you keep the chain under tension, then you read where the tip sits. A two-ended drop-in checker is hooked on and you see whether the far end drops in (Park Tool).

Photo needed: Chain checker seated on the chain with the reading visible. Add one

3Or measure with a ruler

Line up a rivet with zero on a ruler and count 24 more rivets. The last one should sit on the 12 inch mark. If it is more than 1/16 inch past, Park Tool says the chain is worn out. This is a rough check (Park Tool).

Photo needed: Ruler along the chain with a rivet on zero and the 12 inch mark. Add one

4Compare to the limit

Park Tool's general guide: 0.5% wear for 11-speed and up, 0.75% for 10-speed and below, and 1.0% for single speed. The chain maker's own spec comes first (Park Tool). iFixit suggests replacing the chainrings and cassette together with the chain (iFixit). Park Tool's approach is to replace the chain on time, and to replace the cogs if a new chain skips (Park Tool).

5Check the old chain's length

Shift to the largest chainring and largest cog. The chain should show two slight bends at the derailleur pulleys. On the smallest cogs it should have no slack and not touch itself (Park Tool).

Photo needed: Rear derailleur in the largest cog showing the gentle bends at both pulleys. Add one

6Remove the old chain

For a quick link chain, find the link with the different side plates and open it with master link pliers. For a pinned chain, push out a rivet a few links away from any old connecting rivet with a chain tool, keeping the pin straight (Park Tool). Shimano says not to reuse a quick link once it has been removed (Shimano).

Photo needed: Master link pliers squeezing a quick link open on the lower run. Add one

7Size the new chain

If the old chain was the right length, lay the two side by side and match them rivet by rivet, keeping in mind the old one has stretched. Otherwise, for rear cogs of 36 teeth or fewer, wrap the chain around the largest chainring and largest cog, find the shortest point where the ends can join, and add two rivets. For 1x setups with a 42 tooth or larger cog, Park Tool routes the chain around the ring and largest cog without the derailleur and adds four rivets (Park Tool). Shimano says not to cut a chain at the quick link (Shimano).

Photo needed: Old and new chains laid side by side, matched rivet for rivet. Add one

8Route the chain

Any logos on the chain face outward on the drive side. Thread it through the rear derailleur, following the cage tabs, then through the front derailleur if you have one (Park Tool).

9Join the chain

Use a new quick link made for your chain. Shimano says to fit it with the arrow pointing in the direction the cranks turn (Shimano). Seat it with the pliers, or set it on the top run, hold the rear brake and press on the pedal. For a pinned chain, use the connecting rivet made for that chain and follow its instructions (Park Tool).

Photo needed: Quick link fitted on the top run with its arrow pointing forward. Add one

Videos

How to Replace a Chain on a Bike: Sizing & Installation from Park Tool: Measures wear, sizes a new chain against the old one and joins it with a master link or connecting pin.

When to get a pro

  • Full suspension bikes need the shock disconnected to size the chain (Park Tool). A shop can do this for you.
  • The new chain skips and the cassette needs replacing, and you don't have a cassette lockring tool.
  • The chain or quick link is cracked or bent, or you are unsure the link is fully seated.
  • More on what to leave to a shop: when to call a pro.

Sources

Stuck after these checks? Find a shop near you.

Need a pro?

If these steps didn't fix it, find a shop near you in our partner network of shops that work on electric rides.

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