How-to guide

How to bleed Shimano hydraulic disc brakes

Bleed Shimano hydraulic disc brakes with the funnel method, using Shimano mineral oil only, plus the torque values for the bleed screws.

Last edited Nov 9, 2026 by Pedalwise team Edit History Add a subpage

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Difficulty: Difficult
Time: 45 to 90 minutes

Tools

Parts

Mineral brake oil (Shimano mineral oil only)
Isopropyl alcohol
Disc brake pads (only if contaminated or worn)

Shimano hydraulic disc brakes are fitted to a lot of e-bikes. This guide uses the funnel method for BR-MT200, BR-MT400, BR-MT420, BR-MT500, Deore BR-M6000 and SLX BR-M7000 brakes and their levers, as set out in dealer manual DM-MBBR001 (Shimano dealer manual). A second walkthrough of the same job is a good companion (Park Tool). For the general idea of bleeding, see bleeding hydraulic disc brakes.

Brakes are safety critical. Shimano brakes take Shimano mineral oil only, from a freshly opened bottle. Never put DOT fluid in them or share a bleed kit between DOT and mineral oil, since the wrong fluid can make the brake fail (Shimano dealer manual, Park Tool).

Some newer Shimano MTB brakes, such as BR-M9200, BR-M8200 and BR-MT805, take SHIMANO Low Viscosity Oil instead. Never mix the two oils (Shimano oil manual). Check your model before you buy oil.

Test the brake in a safe place before you ride. If the lever still feels soft or goes to the bar, don't ride it, and take it to a shop.

What you need

A mineral oil bleed kit with a Shimano funnel and a syringe with tubing, see brake bleed kit
Shimano mineral oil, see mineral brake oil
The yellow bleed spacer (bleed block) and a red pad spacer for your caliper
Hex keys, a 7 mm wrench for calipers with a bleed nipple, and a torque wrench
A bag and a zip tie for old oil, rags, gloves, eye protection, isopropyl alcohol and a bike repair stand

Steps

1Note your lever reach setting, then back the lever out

If the lever has a free stroke screw, back it out a few turns and reset it at the end (Park Tool).

2Step 2

Remove the wheel and the pads, push the pistons back with a flat plastic tool, and fit the bleed spacer so the pistons can't pop out (Shimano dealer manual).

3Step 3

Set M7000 type levers at about 45 degrees and MT series levers level, with the hose rising from caliper to lever (Shimano dealer manual).

4Step 4

Remove the lever's top bleed screw and its O-ring and thread in the funnel (Shimano dealer manual).

5Step 5

Fill the syringe with fresh oil, push out any air, and fit its tube over the caliper bleed nipple. Open the bleed screw about 1/8 turn and push oil up until it comes out in the funnel with no bubbles. Don't pump the lever during this step (Shimano dealer manual).

6Step 6

Close the bleed screw, swap the syringe for a tube into a bag, and open it again. Tap the caliper and hose so air rises, and keep the funnel topped up so it never draws air (Shimano dealer manual).

7Close the bleed screw

With the lever squeezed, open and close it quickly two or three times, then tighten it. Torque the bleed screw to 4 to 6 N·m on MT200, MT400 and M7000 series calipers, and 4 to 7 N·m on M6000 (Shimano dealer manual).

8Step 8

Work the lever until no more bubbles come up into the funnel and the lever goes firm. If it stays soft, go back a step (Shimano dealer manual).

9Step 9

Set the lever level, then tilt it about 30 degrees each way, working the lever at each angle to free trapped air (Shimano dealer manual).

10Step 10

Plug the funnel, remove it, refit the O-ring and bleed screw while oil overflows slightly, and wipe up. The reservoir bleed screw takes 0.5 to 1 N·m (Shimano dealer manual).

11Step 11

Remove the bleed spacer, refit the pads and wheel, reset your reach and free stroke, and clean the lever and caliper with alcohol (Park Tool).

12Step 12

Pump the lever, check for leaks, and center the caliper if the pads rub. See center a disc brake caliper.

Common mistakes

Using DOT fluid, a DOT kit, or the wrong Shimano oil. Other oils can cause brake failure (Shimano dealer manual).
Reusing oil that came out of the bleed nipple. It may hold water (Shimano dealer manual).
Letting the funnel run low, which pulls air back into the lever (Park Tool).
Leaving the funnel's O-ring in the lever, or forgetting to restore reach and free stroke (Park Tool).
Getting oil on the pads. Oily pads need replacing (Shimano dealer manual), see replace disc brake pads.
Squeezing the lever with the wheel out and no pad spacer fitted (Shimano dealer manual).

Videos

How to Bleed Hydraulic Brakes, Shimano Flat Bar Levers from Park Tool: the full funnel bleed on a flat bar lever.

How To Bleed A Shimano Hydraulic Disc Brake from GMBN Tech: a second walkthrough of a Shimano bleed.

When to get a pro

You can't tell which oil your brake takes.
The lever stays soft after two bleeds, oil seeps from a fitting, or a hose is damaged.
The hose needs shortening or a new olive and insert. Never reuse them (Shimano dealer manual).
You can't confirm the lever's motor cutoff sensor still works, see check brake cutoff and throttle and when to call a pro.

Sources

Stuck after these checks? Find a shop near you.

Need a pro?

If these steps didn't fix it, find a shop near you in our partner network. For battery or wiring trouble, look for shops marked Battery and electrical.

Talk

Questions, things that worked for you, or something that looks wrong on this page.

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