Fixing a flat on an e-bike, step by step, and how to get fewer of them
Flats on e-bikes are harder than on regular bikes because of hub motors and heavier tires. Step-by-step repair for front and rear hub-motor wheels, plus prevention.
The Pedalwise team started this page from official manuals, support pages and repair videos. Fixed this yourself, or spotted something wrong? Help improve it.
- Difficulty
- Moderate
- Time
- 30 to 90 minutes
Tools
- Tire levers
- Floor pump with gauge
- Patch kit
- Axle nut wrench
- Torque wrench
- Hex keys
- Flush cutters
Parts
- Inner tube (check size on tire sidewall)
- Zip ties
- Tire boot (for a cut casing)
- Tubeless plug (tubeless tires only)
A front flat on an e-bike is like any bike. A rear flat on a hub-motor bike takes longer, because the motor cable runs into the axle and the axle hardware must go back exactly as it came off. These steps follow Rad's and Ride1UP's hub-motor wheel guides and Park Tool's tube guide. Your model's guide wins where it differs.
If you have to walk the bike home, Aventon says to keep the flat wheel off the ground the whole way so the rim isn't damaged (Aventon).
Step-by-step repair
1Power off and remove the battery
Turn the bike off, take the battery out, and Rad suggests pressing and holding the power or MODE button to drain leftover power (Rad wheel guide).
2Shift and support the bike
Shift to the smallest rear cog. If you flip the bike, rest the bars on blocks to protect the display (Rad wheel guide, Aventon).
Photo needed: Bike upside down with the handlebar resting on two wooden blocks. Add one
3Unplug the motor cable (rear hub only)
Find the connector near the chainstay, snip any zip ties carefully, and pull the two halves straight apart without twisting (Rad wheel guide).
Photo needed: The motor cable connector near the chainstay, pulled apart in a straight line. Add one
4Photograph the axle hardware, then loosen it
Photograph the order of nuts, washers and torque washers or arms on both sides. Loosen the axle nuts and remove any torque arm bolt (Rad wheel guide, Himiway).
Photo needed: Close-up of the axle end showing nut, washer and torque washer in order. Add one
5Remove the wheel
6Take the tire off
7Find the hole and the cause
Pump the tube up and listen or feel for air, or dunk it in water and watch for bubbles (Park Tool patching). Then check the tread and inside of the casing carefully for glass, wire or thorns, and check the rim strip covers every spoke hole (Park Tool).
Photo needed: Fingers running carefully along the inside of the tire casing. Add one
8Patch or replace the tube
Roughen the area lightly, clean it, and apply the patch as the kit says. Park Tool calls glueless patches a temporary trailside fix (Park Tool patching). A cut in the tire casing needs a tire boot and then a new tire.
9Fit the tube and tire
Put just enough air in the tube to give it shape. Fit the valve straight through the rim hole, tuck the tube in, and push the bead on by hand, using a lever only as a last resort. Check both sides that no tube is caught under the bead (Park Tool).
Photo needed: Thumbs pushing the last section of bead over the rim. Add one
10Inflate to the sidewall pressure
At low pressure, check that the molded line above the bead sits evenly all the way round. Then inflate to the pressure printed on the tire, checked with a gauge (Park Tool).
11Refit the wheel and torque the axle
Lay out the hardware as in your photo. Seat the axle fully in the dropouts, torque washer tabs in place and rotor between the pads (Rad wheel guide, Ride1UP). Tighten the axle nuts with a torque wrench to your maker's number. Two examples: Rad gives 40 Nm for the RadCity and Ride1UP gives 30 Nm in its rear wheel guide, so don't guess (Rad wheel guide, Ride1UP, Himiway).
Photo needed: Torque wrench with a crow foot on the axle nut. Add one
12Reconnect, then test
Line up the arrows or pins on the motor connector and push it together without twisting, then add a new zip tie (Rad wheel guide). Put the battery back, test the brakes and the motor, and only then ride (Aventon).
Tubeless tires
Sealant seals many small punctures. For a bigger hole, Aventon describes a tubeless plug, or a tube if the tire has come off the rim (Aventon).
Prevent most flats
- Check pressure often. Aventon suggests every ride or at least weekly, and Rad says top off every one to two weeks. The range is on the tire's sidewall (Aventon tire tips, Rad flat tips).
- Under-inflation can cause pinch flats (REI).
- Pick glass and thorns out of the tread after riding through debris (Rad flat tips, REI).
- Tire liners, tube sealant and puncture-resistant tires all cut flats, at some cost in weight (REI).
- Replace a tire when the casing threads show, or the center grooves on a smooth tire are gone (Rad flat tips).
Scooters
Scooter tires vary: air-filled, tubeless self-sealing like the Segway Max G2's, or solid (Segway Max G2 manual, Hiboy). Check your manual before you buy a tube. See also scooter maintenance.
Videos
Sources
- RadCity rear wheel removal guide, Rad Power Bikes
- Removing the rear hub motor wheel, Ride1UP
- Ebike tire repair, tubed and tubeless, Aventon
- Ebike tire pressure best practices, Aventon
- Fixing a flat on a rear hub motor fat ebike, Himiway
- Tire and tube removal and installation, Park Tool
- How to patch a tire and tube, Park Tool
- 4 things you can do to avoid flats, Rad Power Bikes
- How to prevent a flat bike tire, REI
- Ninebot KickScooter Max G2 product manual, Segway
- Electric scooter maintenance tips, Hiboy
- How to Remove and Install a Bicycle Tire & Tube, Park Tool (YouTube)
Stuck after these checks? Find a shop near you.
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