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How-to guide

How to adjust brake lever reach and bite point

Set how far the brake lever sits from the grip and where the pads start to bite on Shimano, SRAM, Tektro and Magura levers, then check the e-bike's brake cutoff sensor still works.

Last edited Nov 9, 2026 by Pedalwise team Edit History Add a subpage

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Difficulty
Easy
Time
10 to 20 minutes

Reach is how far the brake lever blade sits from the grip. Bite point, also called contact point or pressure point, is where in the lever's travel the pads touch the rotor. Setting reach so you can brake with one or two fingers makes stops easier and safer, especially for smaller hands. This guide covers the adjusters on common Shimano, SRAM, Tektro and Magura hydraulic levers. For other brake checks see e-bike brakes and the brake lever part page.

Brakes are safety critical. After any change, squeeze the lever hard and make sure it never touches the handlebar. Shimano lists that check before every ride (Shimano user manual), and Magura says to keep the lever at least 20 mm from the bar (Magura MT manual).

Most e-bikes have a brake cutoff sensor on the lever that stops the motor when you brake. After moving a lever, check that the motor still cuts out every time you brake. Tektro asks for this check after any adjustment (Tektro owner's manual).

What you need

  • Hex keys, usually a small 2 mm or 2.5 mm, or Torx keys, depending on the lever
  • A torque wrench if you move the lever clamp

Steps

1Step 1

Sit on the bike in your normal riding position and rest a finger on the lever. Note where the blade sits now, so you can go back.

2Find the reach adjuster

It's usually a small knob, or a screw near the pivot or in the lever body.

3Turn it in small steps and recheck by feel after each one

The notes by brand below say what each adjuster does.

4Step 4

If the lever angle feels wrong rather than its distance, loosen the clamp, rotate the lever so your wrist stays straight, and tighten it to the value in your manual. For example, Tektro lists 6 to 8 Nm for a one piece clamp and 5 to 7 Nm for a two piece clamp (Tektro owner's manual), and Magura lists 4 N·m maximum (Magura MT manual).

5Squeeze each lever hard

The pads should bite well before the blade reaches the bar.

6Step 6

Check the cutoff sensor on each lever as shown in check brake cutoff and throttle. The motor should stop every time you pull the brake. See also brake cutoff sensor.

7Test ride at walking speed in a safe spot before riding normally

Adjusters by brand

  • Shimano: many levers have reach adjust, and some also have a free stroke screw that changes how far the lever moves before the pads bite (Park Tool). Shimano's user manual says to see your dealer if the levers sit too far away or too close (Shimano user manual).
  • SRAM: turning the reach adjuster counterclockwise brings the blade closer to the bar. Levers with a contact point adjuster can also change how much travel happens before the pads engage, following the arrow on the lever (SRAM user manual).
  • Tektro: reach is set with a tool free knob on some levers, or a 2 mm reach screw on others (Tektro owner's manual). Not every Tektro lever adjusts, for example the HDC300 doesn't (Tektro FAQ).
  • Magura: the Reach Adjust dial moves the lever in or out without changing the pressure point. Levers with the BAT dial move the pressure point, and turning it toward Plus makes the brake bite earlier (Magura MT manual).

Common mistakes

  • Pulling the reach in so far that the lever hits the bar under a hard squeeze.
  • Using reach to hide a soft lever. If the bite point keeps moving toward the bar, the brake may need new pads or a bleed, see fix a spongy brake lever.
  • Moving the lever clamp and leaving the brake cutoff sensor or its magnet out of line.
  • Forgetting to reset reach after a bleed. Park Tool backs reach and free stroke off for the bleed and restores them after (Park Tool).

Videos

How to Bleed Hydraulic Brakes, Shimano Flat Bar Levers from Park Tool: shows where the reach and free stroke adjusters sit on Shimano levers.

When to get a pro

  • The lever reaches the bar even with reach set fully out. SRAM says pad advance or a bleed may be needed (SRAM bleed manual).
  • The motor keeps running when you brake, or won't run at all after you moved the lever. Don't ride until it's fixed.
  • A lever has no adjuster and still doesn't fit your hands. A shop can suggest a short reach lever that suits your brake.
  • Any doubt, see when to call a pro.

Sources

Stuck after these checks? Find a shop near you.

Need a pro?

If these steps didn't fix it, find a shop near you in our partner network. For battery or wiring trouble, look for shops marked Battery and electrical.

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